Improving the Bronco Raptor Audio Quality

the314boss

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OK: here we go!

I am loving this truck - even more than I anticipated that I would given some of my misgivings about road noise (which is real, but really not bothersome) as well as a few other things missing from my "Raptor" experience having owned a 2018 F-150 bird.

That said, one area where it is really suffering, IMO, is the sounds quality of the stereo - and I have the B&O sysytem, for reference. Most noticeably, the bass tones are coming across more as vibrations from the back of the truck that actual low frequency sound waves.

NOTE: I am not talking about it being used for a "booming system" either: this is happening as much with listening to the bass guitar in country music as it is in Pink Floyd, Black Keyes or modern/electronic tracks.

So, my question is: Has anyone looked into the speakers of the truck and/or how sound deadening or other methods might be employed to improve the sounds quality and lower vibration of plastic/metal parts in the truck? The midrange and high tones seem to be sonically pretty well represented (at least in the front) but the low end is pretty abysmal.

ALSO NOTE: i have gone in and dropped the levels in equalizer to push all of them down to avoid over-amplification/over-driving of the speakers. I think this is about placement, enclosures or adjacent parts that are being vibrated by lower tones.

Any/all input would be sincerely appreciated. I will also share anything I discover myself .


Cheers!
 

Dluu12

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My assessment of the stock B&O was a little different. Top on - no highs, ok mids and ok low but the rattling drove me nuts. Top off - everything bad, especially the rattling. I thought about adding a 12" on the tail gate and call it a day but the more I go through the forums and Youtube, the more I slipped down the car audio rabbit hole and ended up replacing all speakers, adding a MoBrige plug n play amp and doing the Kicker 8" conversion on the stock sub box. I'll be adding the 12" Stinger next.

From what I'm learning on the forums, just replacing the speakers doesn't make a huge difference and probably not worth it. This is due to the limitation of the B&O amp. Replacing the B&O sub with Kicker or any other variant is a better time and money investment. This is all depending on how much of a bass head you are though. Obviously wasn't enough for me...

On the sound deadening, I read from some posts that it didn't make a big difference but my experience is the opposite. I took the opportunity to put Siless, Kilmat, Tesa tape, foam, etc. on everything and to me, it made a huge difference. I'm probably at 99% rattle free at high volume right now. Just couple pics for reference but I'll be happy to answer any specific question with my experience
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if I didn't answers your question.
 
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the314boss

the314boss

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First, I really appreciate the detailed response - thank you!

After reading through your posts, I have a couple of follow up questions:

1) Did I understand you correctly and you replaced the stock subwoofer with a Kicker? What ohm load is the factory speaker? Perhaps a better question is what exact speaker did you buy if you don't me asking?

2) As it relates to sound deadening, do you have any sense of where the majority of the rattling/vibration is coming from in the back? I probably don't have the time to commit to a tear down of the entire back of the truck at this point in time (maybe in Spring), but i can replace the sub and work to control the vibration with strategically placed deadening and tape/securing elements that may vibrate. I presume the worst of it is coming from the panels surrounding the sub or somewhere in the vicinity?

I guess what I am asking: based on your own project, outside of replacing the stock driver, is there a smaller project that can produce an acceptable result as it relates to the vibrations while improving the sonic quality of the bass? (I don't need it to be over the top "bass head" built.


Thanks again!
 

Dluu12

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1) Yes, the stock subwoofer was replaced with a Kicker sub. I bought it like that since I wanted to sell my B&O system complete with the box and sub (btw - it's still for sale if you know anyone interested). Picture below. Although I didn't do the conversion, it didn't seem hard to do with numerous forum instructions and videos out there. Here's instruction and video:


2) I had a rattle too and I suspect this was my problem (link below) because when I took everything apart, there's marks where the sub boxes was hitting the panel (pic below and circled, although hard to see in pic). Sounds like a common issue and I would start here. This will take maybe 5 mins and I should have done it when I bought the truck instead of waiting months later....Plus, it's fun read as OP is witty -


If you wanted just more bass, and don't mind not putting another accessory on the on the tailgate, then I recommend just adding a box with a 10/12" sub (such as a Stinger) on the tailgate and power it with another small amp. I believe Plug N Play sells a harness for this now so this should be a relatively "small" project. I probably would have been happy with this set up (and fixing the rattle) if I didn't come across the nice complete set up that another member was selling at a great price. That's how I went down this slippery rabbit hole but I'm glad I did because now, I have crisp high and strong bass and just better audio quality altogether. The only regret is I have to take out my fold down table but I probably won't use that for more than couple times a year versus enjoying the bass every time I drive.

I'm also glad I did because I spent weeks reading everything on line and it seems like a big project tearing everything apart and putting it back together but honestly, it wasn't. I spent the weekend (probably 10 hours total between the two day) replacing all the speakers, replacing the two rear pods to 6/5" speakers, sound deadening, etc. and it was kind of therapeutic for me. I actually enjoyed it and I'll do it again in a heart beat getting my mind off my high-pressure office job.
 

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DEBO294

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I set my B&O like this. I have no rattles. Bass is deep and clear. Highs are a bit weak, but I like where I’m at with these settings.
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stevoid

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My assessment of the stock B&O was a little different. Top on - no highs, ok mids and ok low but the rattling drove me nuts. Top off - everything bad, especially the rattling. I thought about adding a 12" on the tail gate and call it a day but the more I go through the forums and Youtube, the more I slipped down the car audio rabbit hole and ended up replacing all speakers, adding a MoBrige plug n play amp and doing the Kicker 8" conversion on the stock sub box. I'll be adding the 12" Stinger next.

From what I'm learning on the forums, just replacing the speakers doesn't make a huge difference and probably not worth it. This is due to the limitation of the B&O amp. Replacing the B&O sub with Kicker or any other variant is a better time and money investment. This is all depending on how much of a bass head you are though. Obviously wasn't enough for me...

On the sound deadening, I read from some posts that it didn't make a big difference but my experience is the opposite. I took the opportunity to put Siless, Kilmat, Tesa tape, foam, etc. on everything and to me, it made a huge difference. I'm probably at 99% rattle free at high volume right now. Just couple pics for reference but I'll be happy to answer any specific question with my experience View attachment 2398View attachment 2399View attachment 2400if I didn't answers your question.
Did you do the MTI pods in the rear? They seem to be the only ones that support raptor.

Also, what speakers did you go with for the interior of the Braptor?
 

Johnny Mo

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I've replaced all my B&O speakers and upgraded my sub with an amp. It is sooo much better than what it was and I'm probably all in $1100. I went with Infinity Reference 407f speakers in all 3 dash locations and the rollbar pods. Memphis MJP6 woofers in the kickpanels and then a Kicker Comp R 8" sub - Dual Voice Coil 4 Ohm mated to a Kicker Key 500.1 wired in parallel to take it to a 2 Ohm load 300watts also used the remote volume knob for the sub. It is without question a better sounding system with enough thump that I'm sure during top off season will be great. Sorry about the Infinity's missing from the pics - was able to install them so quickly and easily I didn't even think about pics. And I did add some polyfill to all of the speaker enclosures.

The fact that the Infinity and Memphis have such high efficiency ratings allows them to be better even using just the B&O amp for power. The sub would not likely be as useful a change without the amp.
 

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icangetno

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Continue experimenting with the equalizer settings to find the optimal balance between different frequency ranges. Adjusting the bass levels and fine-tuning the EQ settings can help mitigate any issues with over-amplification or distortion while still achieving the desired sound quality
 

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