Johnny Raptor
Member
I did it once, but they don't do a very good job of cleaning due to the width of the fender flares and the spare tire on the gate. Guy told me width wasn't a problem, but height "could" be problem on some vehicles.
2500 miles, first oil change, impressions and things I'd change
- Thread starter raptorusmaximus
- Start date
I have taken mine through the car wash, I'm not a big fan of automatic car washes, but we haven't had any issues the few times we have done it. We always use touchless car washes though. The car wash doesn't seem to behave or work any differently than with my First Edition Bronco.
Johnny Raptor
Member
Yeah, I'm not either. The one I drove through had the spinning mops that follow the side profile of the vehicle, so the Raptor flares & spare tire kept them from cleaning the flares, parts of the doors, and most of the tailgate & rear glass. Did the same thing on the tailgate & rear glass on our Big Bend. Also did a terrible job scrubbing the 37" tires on both, but I guess it's good for knocking some of the grime off before hand washing it.
JOPO
Active member
I think I’ll give it a try ! Just a little worried about Braptor getting dented up.
I always worry about that too. Always seems like the scrub things hit so hard on my truck. Plus its so loud and makes me think that it is damaging something
Johnny Raptor
Member
Nah. These things are tougher than people give them credit for.
JOPO
Active member
Johnny Raptor
Member
Just think of the stories you can make up, thoughI sure hope so, don’t want a big ass dent in the side
Honestly, I was more worried about it catching on those massive flares and ripping one off, but the mops barely touched them. It really did a crappy job of cleaning it so I’ll just hand wash it when it’s absolutely necessary.
Just think of the stories you can make up, though
Honestly, I was more worried about it catching on those massive flares and ripping one off, but the mops barely touched them. It really did a crappy job of cleaning it so I’ll just hand wash it when it’s absolutely necessary.
Was always curious about that as well. No issues then?
Johnny Raptor
Member
None at all. Won’t be going back through it, though. No need to waste $10 if it won’t even halfway clean it.
TRW22
Member
Dented up, as in the fenders or overall?
DEBO294
Member
For what I spent on this vehicle and the price of automatic car washes, I just get it professionally washed once a month. Had it done the first time a few weeks ago. Complete in and out detail was $120. Dude will charge me $60 for a wash monthly. Last time I was at a car wash, it cost me almost $50. And it was a shit job!
Good call! Not a bad deal at $60 per month too. The best part is you know your BRap is being taken care of while getting detailed because you are going to be a repeat customer for him
M.E.144
New member
My Opinions: CAR WASH - get a power washer, but be careful not to have the water sit on the hood or somehow get under the hood and sit on the engine, because you'll likely be having to take it in for a new engine... I like the idea of the bigger tank, I'd sacrifice the 2nd row for that or the trunk. Get rid of all the sensors, move the entire gauges and dash to the middle screen as I really don't need it, besides the passenger/navigator needs that information far more than I do, unless I am navigating, plus its a ton bigger and would be nice to have complete access to set everything up as customizable without having to include more screens to the vehicle. Remove almost all of the sensors besides the fuel sensor. If I am able to fit the 6.2 in this, it may happen, but it is so damn tight under the hood with a sequential 6 speed, Sparco / Saebelt Race Seats, 6 point harness belts, Rollcage from Hellbent Performance in St. Louis, MO. Winch, Snorkel and engine seal for water - so we don't run into more water issues that continue to cause hell even when crossing the flooded road low speed.
I did my first oil change at 1000 mi oil on dip stick was at top of hash marks. Drained oil from pan stock plug seems fine and lets all the oil out then removed oil filter very easy let it drip for about 15 min then pulled the pan out to dump into recycle tank and put clean pan under the oil pan it still had a slow drip after another 15 or 20 min I was working on another project I heard a rush of oil when I looked another 1/2 qt of oil came out. This could have been 1/2 hr after I thought it was done draining never had this happen before on many years of oil changes it took 8.5 qts to bring it to the same mark on the dip stick. Another note I ran the fuel tank down to 3mi to empty and put 23.2 gallons of gas in I think a 20.8 gallon tank and I wasn't out of gas. 23 BRaptor got fuel at costco stopped fueling after 3rd click maybe could have gotten a little more in.
LittleMule75
New member
Serious Q: what’s the logic in performing the 1st engine oil change at low mileage (>2500miles) before the regular change interval? Or are folks running ur that hard in the desert (in which case, kudos!).
That first early oil change is very important I always check the oil filters and you'll find there'll be more metal debris etc. In that filter on the early oil change than you will on the regular oil changes later on in the cars life.
Johnny Raptor
Member
I always do it on a new motor between 1000-1500 miles for the exact reason @cliffster pointed out. I also switch over to Mobil 1 full synthetic oil for every maintenance cycle thereafter.
DEBO294
Member
I’m coming close to 1000. I’m going to change it then. A truck guy I was talking to told me to get an oil analysis kit and send it to get tested. I’m going to do that. When I was at the dealer for another issue, I mentioned it and the service rep said that’s old school, don’t have to do that anymore. I’m doing it anyway, just to see for myself.
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